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High wood stock repair

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1989LX View Drop Down
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Joined: Jul 23 2019
Location: Gwinnett Co. GA
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    Posted: Sep 24 2019 at 8:49pm
For a while now, I have had an OI high wood in my collection that has been urethaned by a previous owner and has a crack running from the top of the stock to the middle of the magazine wheel roughly. I have decided to give this stock a new lease on life, so I am stripping off the urethane finish at this time (which is not original at all. It looks like someone dunked it in amber shellac) and I plan to RLO and gunny paste it. Despite being sanded considerably (upon putting an action in with a trigger group, the group sticks out a little bit) and being Rock Island catrouche marked, it still is what it is. My question is, how would I go about repairing the high wood section? I have repaired chips and things of that nature before, but not something like this. I want to repair it as I do know that high woods are not exactly on the common side, and I do not want to destroy a still intact high wood stock by goofing up somehow. I will get photos up as soon as I can of the stock.
USGI magazines are like potato chips, you can't have just one!
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Charles View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Charles Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Sep 25 2019 at 8:59am
Difficult repairs require little blocks of wood cut to hold clamps to apply pressure to keep the joint in perfect alignment. Do a dry run to make sure the clamping method will work. Also, strips of rubber, rubber bands, surgical tubing etc are very good at holding round objects. Wipe excess glue before clamping. Elmer's yellow glue would be my first choice.
Good luck
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Charles
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GotSnlB28 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote GotSnlB28 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Sep 25 2019 at 9:32pm
Gorilla glue does fantastic repairs if used properly. It also holds up to the linseed oil applied later. Clean the mating surfaces well with acetone so there is no old finish, oil, etc. Flex the crack as best you can to do this, tighter ones can be difficult. Dampen the surfaces with water so it's soaked into the grain. I use a material syringe to apply the glue sparingly, if you put the syringe tube in hot water for a few minutes before application it thins the glue so it flows better. Glue can be worked fully into the crack with strips cut from a pop can. As mentioned above, clamping is critical, use blocks of wood with cedar shims on the inside of the stock and clamp well. Once dry drag a razor knife or sharp chisel backwards to remove the excess foamed out glue without damaging the wood. Light sand if needed. Staining blends the crack in. I could send you pictures of some I worked on and you would not be able to find the crack. They have held up well to range use.
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