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Possible universal redux |
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Sharps40
Recruit Joined: Aug 17 2017 Location: NC Status: Offline Points: 17 |
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Posted: Nov 15 2021 at 11:14am |
Thanks. I'll have to wipe it down and clean again.....shot another deer, so the bore and the grease on the barrel/slide will be dirty and i suspect they'll be some more woods bits in there from tracking.
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sleeplessnashadow
Admin Group Joined: Nov 09 2015 Location: SoCal Status: Offline Points: 1150 |
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Sharps40,
Just a suggestion and posted here for all to see as not all are aware of this. https://www.gunbroker.com/Item/915834245 Photographs sell your carbine. They are a "hook" that will also get people to read the description. Don't rely on them to ask for more as many will just glance and move on. You did a good job of cleaning the carbine before taking pics. Many are too lazy as they are selling it, not maintaining it. Which may be a clue as to the mindset of the owner. A clean carbine shows that good to great condition. A dirty one hides bad condition but also hides great condition. We're talking higher bids. Those are pretty basic things. Knowing what you have and what you are showing here's a few suggestions: Accessories: - those magazines ... add at least one pic of everything together with the carbine. Mags, ammo, cleaning kit, whatever is included. Mags cost $ so they up the value. Stock: The three areas most likely to crack on a carbine stock are something to take pics of and share. Doesn't require a bunch of pics, just one of each. Receiver A couple pics showing the condition of the bluing/finish - usually a pic or two of the markings can do this. Barrel Your pic of the underside of the barrel is good. Add a pic or two showing the barrel finish. A pic of the front sight with the first 4-6" of the barrel is a good one. One right side, one left side. Adding one of the top and bottom is even better. That's a nice looking carbine in great condition. Many that old don't look near as good. This isn't comprehensive, just a few suggestions. Jim |
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sleeplessnashadow
Admin Group Joined: Nov 09 2015 Location: SoCal Status: Offline Points: 1150 |
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Your carbine is a good example of the problem with the "generations" approach to separating one Universal from another. Whatever defines one generation from another doesn't apply to this carbine.
Just a suggestion, avoid giving it a generation. It will avoid confusion. Point out in the listing that it has a GI style slide with single recoil spring but some of the features of the later carbines. Those redux carbines were not made for retail sales. They were made for police agencies and governments that wanted something that disassembled/reassembled like the GI M1 carbines. OKay to add this tidbit to the listing. If you have a headspace gauge checking the headspace to make sure it's within spec would be a bonus to any buyer. Especially one who knows how important headspace is. With all those magazines and the scope I'm guessing you should get about $800 for it but it's just a guess. As noted, prices are all over the map. Jim |
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floydthecat
Hard Corps Joined: Oct 13 2016 Location: Mississippi Status: Offline Points: 1998 |
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I agree, selling prices seem to be all over the place and it might get down to some buyers being aware of the differences in generations. Get an gen-1 (earlier the better) and you will have a decent carbine somewhat (and early enough completely) compatible with USGI components and that version will sell at a premium to later generations. The redux falls in the category of being somewhat compatible depending on what Universal decided to do that day. The redux is obviously rare, but is it valuable enough to command a premium because it might have a couple of features that make it better than a gen-3 or 4?
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Sharps40
Recruit Joined: Aug 17 2017 Location: NC Status: Offline Points: 17 |
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copy. It's why I asked. Current auctions are 400 to 1300+ with no evident differences between auctions
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floydthecat
Hard Corps Joined: Oct 13 2016 Location: Mississippi Status: Offline Points: 1998 |
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I would suggest it be priced in the area of any other run-of-the-mil Universal on various auction sites. I doubt if anyone interested in purchasing a Universal is going to be aware or interested in the differences between the generations and a redux.
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Sharps40
Recruit Joined: Aug 17 2017 Location: NC Status: Offline Points: 17 |
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Reviving an old thread....
I'm thinking of selling this redux but not sure how to price it fairly......could use some advice. I use it. I've fired it/hunted with it. It has the feed ramp polished and a 11 Degree target crown. Runs great on full power ammo, weaker Tulammo sometimes failes to eject but mostly runs fine too. Rifle with scope and mount, sling, 3 each 5 round magazines (one original, 2 new promag), 2 each 10 round magazines (new promag), 4 each 15 round magazines (new promag), one mag pouch. Original box and papers too. |
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03manV
On Point Joined: Mar 01 2020 Location: near Charlotte Status: Offline Points: 262 |
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As you say above, Universal stopped contouring the top of the barrel at some point, I believe it was when they went to the metal handguard. A GI handguard won't work on these and later barrels, unless some wood is removed from inside the handguard- above the rear, larger portion of the barrel. This mod does not require too much skill or effort if someone wants a wooden handguard. Then another problem arises, many of the universal stocks are wider than a GI stock, and will overhang the narrower GI handguard. Some Universal wooden handguards are also cut "larger" in the same inside area. Sorry I can't help with serial or time line data; as these are "observations" from handling/repairing a few Universals over the years.
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Don
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sleeplessnashadow
Admin Group Joined: Nov 09 2015 Location: SoCal Status: Offline Points: 1150 |
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Narrative and a couple pics added to clarify the cut in the rear of the receiver bridge.
http://www.m1carbinesinc.com/carbine_universal4.html |
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sleeplessnashadow
Admin Group Joined: Nov 09 2015 Location: SoCal Status: Offline Points: 1150 |
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Hi Ruben
It should be able to work with a GI handguard and barrel band. I can't guarantee it but the one I had they did. GI barrel bands should be able to work with any Universal that has a GI "style" barrel band vs. the one used with the Monte Carlo stocks. A GI handguard on a Universal depends on the barrel. The dimensions of the barrels used by Universal changed over time. Those with the square gas block tend not to accept a GI handguard without modification to the handguard. However, yours should have the gas piston cylinder, not the gas block. Those barrels have been able to accept a GI handguard. Jim |
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Crusader_6
Recruit Joined: May 04 2020 Location: Puerto Rico Status: Offline Points: 19 |
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Hi everyone! It is nice to finally see a thread with someone talking about an Universal Carbine same
As mine. Mine is an Universal Redux s/n 355622. I was wondering if an USGI wooden handguard would fit on it, as I really do not like the metal handguard it has. Also, I would like to add the band with a bayonet lug. Would an USGI fit my Redux ?I would really appreciate any input.
Regards, Ruben |
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Sharps40
Recruit Joined: Aug 17 2017 Location: NC Status: Offline Points: 17 |
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it's what's in the store. If ine sticks it can be unstuck. No worries
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floydthecat
Hard Corps Joined: Oct 13 2016 Location: Mississippi Status: Offline Points: 1998 |
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Do a little self-research on Tula and formulate your own opinion. Most say the steel case ammo is not recommended due to the case itself and the finish applied to the case. You can get it for a few $ less, but one stuck case can ruin your day. |
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Sharps40
Recruit Joined: Aug 17 2017 Location: NC Status: Offline Points: 17 |
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this thing is a great shooter. Trigger sucks but tula ammo is right on the sights at 100 marking. Very reliable with the 15 Rd promags too. Over all I'm quite happy and the price was excellent. Reminds me of how much fun my Universal was when I was a young man.
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sleeplessnashadow
Admin Group Joined: Nov 09 2015 Location: SoCal Status: Offline Points: 1150 |
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Hi guys
The bolt designed and used by Universal having the internal firing pin is of the same outward dimensions as the GI bolt. I haven't tried one in a GI carbine as I don't wanna find out the hard way that something is different. I'm not a gunsmith or a machinist. Beyond my abilities. The later carbine designed by Universal had parts designed for that carbine. Not for a GI carbine. So mixing and matching I figure isn't a real good idea. Even if something worked it may not continue to do so. One thing true of all commercial bolts I've tested and used in the various trials of the commercial carbines from every commercial manufacturer is the rear of the bolt wasn't hardened to GI spec. GI spec was for the bolt to be hardened to RC 38-43 with the rear of the bolt receiving a second hardening of 48-54. Commercial bolts, if hardened correctly the first time, have been 38-43 front to rear with no second hardening of the rear. Where this becomes important is the repeated impact the rear of the bolt receives from the hammer. If the hammer is a GI hammer the lifespan of the rear of a commercial bolt is less than what it would be with the hammer built to go with the commercial bolt. I've said throughout the websites and forums the rear of commercial bolts need to be inspected periodically to make sure the design hasn't been deformed from repeated hits of the hammer. Whether the hammer is GI or commercial. With used guns there is no way of knowing what part was original vs a replacement or swapped around between carbines. The design of the rear of the bolt is a safety feature to prevent the hammer from striking the firing pin until the bolt has rotated and locked. Universal Firearms retained that design. An FYI regarding the receiver bridge of a Universal Firearms carbine. Universal machined their receivers from forged steel billets. When machining was complete and the markings added they then hardened their receivers before bluing. GI spec for receivers was/is RC 38-45. All of the Universal receivers I've tested have been in the 42-45 range. With the exception of a few having the markings of Jacksonville, AR after Universal was closed in 1984 and relocated there. Sticking with the receivers made in Hialeah, FL, unless one knows what they're doing I wouldn't recommend machining a hardened receiver bridge to accommodate a GI firing pin tang. I recommend using the bolt the receiver was designed for. The one drawback to owning a Universal Firearms hybrid carbine with a s/n above 100k is replacement parts. Generally if it looks like an M1 carbine people inevitably try to use GI parts or parts made to GI spec. Unless one knows what they're doing this isn't a good idea. Particularly with the more critical parts such as the bolt. A question we should ask ourselves is, at what point is a "carbine" no longer an "M1 Carbine"? Universal dropped the U.S. from U.S. Carbine about 1966 just before s/n 88,000. Why is a long story and not relevant to this question. Or is it? While Universal changed the design or a number of parts prior to s/n 100k with the introduction of their hybrid at s/n 100k in 1967 the majority of parts thereafter were no longer compatible with GI parts. While it looked similar and fired the same ammo that doesn't make it an "M1 Carbine" (more correctly: "Carbine Caliber .30, M1") That "Model M1" was the designation given the carbine designed by Winchester and accepted by Ordnance to eventually become the U.S. Carbines manufactured under contracts to U.S. Army Ordnance from 1942-1945. The carbines designed by Universal Firearms having s/n 100k and higher were chambered for the .30 caliber carbine cartridge as were a number of other firearms. Saying a Universal Firearms carbine having a s/n 100k and higher is an "M1 Carbine" is kinda like the lead-ins in a movie that say "based on a true story". While the true story was the basis for the movie the movie usually has very little in common with the true story. Where we humans have difficulty is comprehending the difference between the real story and the movie. For many the movie becomes what's remembered as the "true" story. Jim |
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Sharps40
Recruit Joined: Aug 17 2017 Location: NC Status: Offline Points: 17 |
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yep. Not planning to cut this one. Given its brand new I suspect it'll last more than a lifetime. Universals were good rifles. Most of the negatives touted for them are rather spurious.
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floydthecat
Hard Corps Joined: Oct 13 2016 Location: Mississippi Status: Offline Points: 1998 |
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I'd just be looking for a spare late-model bolt, they turn up now-n-then. Probably the only advantage one would gain by modifying the receiver bridge would be the capability to install a hard GI bolt with a much longer service life. It's not likely wise to have the bridge cut for the FP block and I think the reason Universal changed the design was to avoid relying on that cut, which most commercial manufactures never got right. There are even two distinct versions on that cut among GI carbines. There is nothing wrong with a spring-retained FP system. It's been used for eons and is still in use today.
I'm wondering if the spring-retained system could be carried-over to a GI bolt. Universal pins and springs also show-up, but I don't know the dimensional differences between the two. Maybe someone here does. I think I know who to ask. |
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Sharps40
Recruit Joined: Aug 17 2017 Location: NC Status: Offline Points: 17 |
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so. Upon cleaning and inspection the receiver has an un cut firing pin block. Seems the only thing between the rifle and accepting a military bolt is accurately making the indent for the tail of the pin.
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Sharps40
Recruit Joined: Aug 17 2017 Location: NC Status: Offline Points: 17 |
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finally got moved. Internet soon and then some photos. Stuck with a blackberry for now. But got unpacked enough to locate the cleaning supplies. With a cleaning and grease it functions smooth as silk.
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Sharps40
Recruit Joined: Aug 17 2017 Location: NC Status: Offline Points: 17 |
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Well. No cherry anymore. Fired three. All is well.
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