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Removing Park |
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BER911
Grunt Joined: Aug 04 2018 Location: Central VA Status: Offline Points: 314 |
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Posted: Jan 17 2019 at 3:45pm |
I have an CMP Special M1 Garand that I purchased last spring. It appears the CMP parkerized the trigger group which has caused the safety to be VERY stiff.
I want to disassemble to trigger group and remove the park from the safety lever. Is there a easy way to remove the park without grinding it off? Once I get the park removed, I can do a through cleaning and lube of the trigger housing and get my safety working properly. Any suggestions on removing to park are appreciated!
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Semper Fi, Bruce
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blackfish
On Point Joined: Mar 30 2016 Location: 999-0 Status: Offline Points: 289 |
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Naval Jelly will remove parkerization, but *ONLY* if you have *COMPLETELY* degreased the part beforehand.
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kro1970
On Point Joined: Jan 01 2016 Location: Central Florida Status: Offline Points: 301 |
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https://www.harborfreight.com/1-gallon-evapo-rust-rust-remover-96431.html
This will remove parkerizing without damaging the metal |
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kro1970
On Point Joined: Jan 01 2016 Location: Central Florida Status: Offline Points: 301 |
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I believe you can find it in less than the gallon container |
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BER911
Grunt Joined: Aug 04 2018 Location: Central VA Status: Offline Points: 314 |
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Thanks for the tip. I will try it out. |
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Semper Fi, Bruce
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BER911
Grunt Joined: Aug 04 2018 Location: Central VA Status: Offline Points: 314 |
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Thanks. I have a jar of naval jelly in my garage. I will report back. |
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Semper Fi, Bruce
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sling00
Hard Corps Joined: Apr 21 2016 Location: Tennessee Status: Offline Points: 941 |
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Please do. Thanks
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New2brass
Moderator Group Dan Pinto, Photo Editor Joined: Nov 29 2015 Location: CT Status: Offline Points: 4627 |
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Food for thought,
Park is not an applied finish that builds up. parkerizing actually removes surface material that etches surface giving a surface that holds oil. . If it is binding I would first look to other reasons as to why. |
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BER911
Grunt Joined: Aug 04 2018 Location: Central VA Status: Offline Points: 314 |
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I agree that removing park may remove other material. My issue is the park is new and I can actually see it causing parts to bind.
Once I get the trigger group apart, I may figure out another method to loosen things up. I just want to be prepared Incase some park needs to come off. Appreciate your comment though. |
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Semper Fi, Bruce
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New2brass
Moderator Group Dan Pinto, Photo Editor Joined: Nov 29 2015 Location: CT Status: Offline Points: 4627 |
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Bruce, may be explaining wrong.
Park applied etches surface removing minute amounts of the surface. If a part is in spec then removing the park probably will do nothing. Part might be bent is what I am getting at. The park would show if rubbing is happening. Now if you were planning on honing and fitting before reapplying then my point is moot. Incidently, navel jelly, coke a cola and parkerizing all have phosphoric acid. Navel jelly is quite effective as a remover. Phosphoric acid can also be bought in paint department. Before you go nuts thinking the park is not coming off, the navel jelly may leave a dull gray finish to metal. This due to etching. Will not hold oil like park finish though |
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arthur
On Point Joined: Feb 18 2016 Location: dayton,ohio Status: Offline Points: 369 |
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I received a M1 rifle from CMP in the 1990's and the safety was so tight it really interfered with trigger pull due to sore, stressed finger. I sent the trigger group off to get a "trigger job"........$25.00....yep, it was a long time ago. It resolved all the problems. And no I still couldn't shoot worth a damn.
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painter777
Hard Corps Joined: Feb 18 2016 Location: Central MI Status: Offline Points: 1708 |
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Muriatic Acid
Will strip 'Parked' finish. As Dan mentioned, the part will be left in the Raw. Ever have a part that was parked over with the Black park? Like the Importers used.... I've used Muriatic Acid to strip the Black away and revealed the Original park. Submerged longer will strip the original park. Rinse with water, dry and oil. Follow safety guides.
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Living Free because of those that serve.....
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blackfish
On Point Joined: Mar 30 2016 Location: 999-0 Status: Offline Points: 289 |
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That probably was black paint. Parkerization makes a great primer for steel and in fact is one of its chief uses outside the military.
Parkerization passivates the bare steel surface so that once raw metal is covered, the reaction stops. I.E. you can't parkerize over the top of a parkerized finish No metal exposed means no oxidation by solution acid means no increase in local pH means no local precipitation of phosphates from solution means no coating applied to object! |
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painter777
Hard Corps Joined: Feb 18 2016 Location: Central MI Status: Offline Points: 1708 |
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But you can Parkerize over a Thin/bare Parked finish.
My example was a IBM Op Slide that had been Re-parked to the deep Charcoal black color. After dipping it revealed the original 'Thinned' Grey park.
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Living Free because of those that serve.....
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sling00
Hard Corps Joined: Apr 21 2016 Location: Tennessee Status: Offline Points: 941 |
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Any thought on buying a non-parked safety and trying it?
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BER911
Grunt Joined: Aug 04 2018 Location: Central VA Status: Offline Points: 314 |
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I need to disassemble the trigger group and assess the problem. Certainly a non-parked safety is an option, but I want to see what I am dealing with first. I know that a safety that requires so much pressure it leaves a DENT in you finger is not functioning properly. Other guys in my unit take their M1's to the range and their safeties easily snap on and off.
Much appreciate all the advice. I'll advise what I find when I get the trigger assembly apart. |
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Semper Fi, Bruce
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BER911
Grunt Joined: Aug 04 2018 Location: Central VA Status: Offline Points: 314 |
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Today I disassembled the trigger group of my M1. I first throughly cleaned all parts & housing with Hoppes and a tooth brush. There was some built up grease inside the housing, but basically the parts were in pretty good shape.
I used Navel Jelly on the safety, trigger/sear, hammer, hammer spring guide, trigger guard and the two metal pins. I coated each piece with a thick coating of the Navel Jelly and let the parts sit for 10 minutes. I then used a tooth brush to scrub the parts and rinsed them in hot water. The parts were throughly dried with compressed air. The park finish was not totally removed, but a significant portion of it did go down the drain. Finally, I soaked all the parts in Ballistol for about an hour before reassembly. I test fit the safety to see where the safety makes "metal to metal" contact with other parts. I used 600 grit emery paper to smooth the metal contact points on the safety and the respective parts. Reassembly went smoothly. I used Militec gun grease and oil in the appropriate locations. The safety works a bit smoother now, but still takes more pressure than I like. Overall, I am pleased, but I will continue to work the safety "back and forth" to further smooth it out.
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Semper Fi, Bruce
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blackfish
On Point Joined: Mar 30 2016 Location: 999-0 Status: Offline Points: 289 |
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Is the extraordinary force required to twist the safety relatively constant or does it pass through a maximum about halfway thru the twist?
If the latter, perhaps either 1) your double-ended plunger spring assembly that bridges the catch and safety is either not assembled fully (it's 3 separate parts) or maybe it's not USGI and so perhaps is a bit "long" for the task. One of its plungers rides a countour machined into the safety; or 2) your safety is not good - perhaps a burr in the way? If either and you have another, easy if you've more than one carbine, try swapping and see |
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W5USMC
Moderator Group Joined: Apr 29 2017 Location: Missouri Status: Offline Points: 2949 |
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blackfish, I think the OP is talking about a M1 Garand safety not a Carbine.
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Wayne
USMC Retired NRA Life Member |
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BER911
Grunt Joined: Aug 04 2018 Location: Central VA Status: Offline Points: 314 |
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Blackfish, I appreciate your response, but as Wayne noted, I am taking about the safety in my M1 Garand. ============ One thing I failed to point out is all the parts in the trigger assembly were marked "SA" and all were in very good/excellent condition. Since the rifle was sold by the CMP as a "Special", they probably rebuilt the rifle to "like-new" specs. That explains why all the parts appear to be freshly parkerized. I saw no signs of abnormal wear, nor damage, on the safety. In retrospect, I think a large part of the issue with the stiff safety is simply caused by the trigger assembly being "new" and therefore the parts just need to be broken-in. One final observation...IMHO the disassembly/reassembly of the Garand's trigger housing is much easier than the Carbine. But both both weapons are very much fun to work on, shoot and enjoy! |
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Semper Fi, Bruce
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